Desert

December 18, 2008

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We are back from the desert. We went to the Karoo. Up a dirtroad, 100 kms north of Ceres. We took the dogs and two boys to visit Luzie and her friends on a farm.

It was different from anything else I have been. You travel this dusty yellow road and there are no cars, no trees, no houses, just bushes and dry land. There is nothing. The wind that blows into the windows is hot like a hairdryer. Nothing changes just dry flat land. And suddenly at the horizon you see something blue and it is glimmering because of the heat. It looks like water. Blue blue water and you think this must be a mirage and as you come closer you see, it is actually water. Masses of blue blue water in the middle of this dry yellow land. You have no idea where it comes from. And it is cold. It is a miracle.

We turned left at the green watertank and the sign grote dam, drove through a gate and the road became worse and worse untill we finally arrived in the middle of nowhere. Three empty cottages, no shade. The fridge didn’t work. The butter melted away. We ate all the meat the first night and drank warm beer. The water which came out of the shower was too hot to use. We went to swim at the dam. There was a huge dam In the middle of this dry land with cold water. A bird sanctuary because there is nobody. Just us and the birds. The children played in the pool, a natural hot pool where the water flows from the mountain into the pool and it just overflows because you can’t stop the water.

Every morning we got up at six o’clock after the sunrise and walked into the dessert. It was beautiful. You can walk forever in any direction. We saw a rooi cat, we collected stones and rocks. We walked along an almost dry river bed with puddles of water.

At night we listened to the birds and sat in the coole breeze. The stars were amazing. It was just us and the sky. I could lwatch the stars from my bed. I saw the moon rise bright orange and fell back asleep until a layer oft bright orange light on the dark blue sky announced the sunrise.

It had 46 or more degrees. We swam and ate and slept. It was snake season. We saw a dead Cape Cobra next to the road and told the kids to watch every step because it was an hour drive to the next doctor. Luzies friends family spent their days shooting mice and feeding them to the cats. The mice eat the vegetable they grow in a little garden and attract the snakes. The girls run around in bikinis and rubber boots.

On the way back in an insane heat, we stop for a car on the side of the dusty road. They had a puncture and their jack was broken. They said, you can not believe how glad we are to see you. We were the second car they met on the road since they had left two hours ago and had waited for 30 minutes in the burning sun until we arrived. Sven changed their tyre and than we travelled together to the next gas station more than 60 kms away. We both needed diesel and drove on empty. We knew we wouldn’t make it that far. Sven stopped at a game resort and asked if they could sell us some diesel and they did.

As soon as we left the dirt road it cooled down. We were back in the world. For the first time in my life I loved the heat. I have never experienced the dry desert heat. It is completely different from the tropical humid heat. It is so dry, I didn’t even sweat. It is like the exact opposite of a very cold clear winterday.

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